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eBay Specifications: Unit Type: Alternator Part Type: UNIT Voltage: 12 Rotation: CW Amperage: 160 Pulley Class: S6 Regulator: IR Fan Type: IF Part Numbers: Chrysler: 04896805AD, 4896805AD, 04896805AE, 4896805AE Denso: 421000-0620, 421000-0621 Original Reference Number: 46588 Lester: 11383 Arrowhead: AND0476 J & N Automotive: 400-52194R AC-Delco: 334-2795 Remy Remanufactured: 12857 NAPA: 213-9749 MPA: 15095 BBB Ind: 11383 Wilson: 90-29-5718 Carquest: 11383A Bosch Remanufactured: AL6469X BBB New: N11383 Rayloc New: 1N9749 New Alternator For Chrysler 2008-2012 Dodge Challenger Charger 2008-2010 11383 Specifications: Unit Type: Alternator Part Type: UNIT Voltage: 12 Rotation: CW Amperage: 160 Pulley Class: S6 Regulator: IR Fan Type: IF Part Numbers: Chrysler: 04896805AD, 4896805AD, 04896805AE, 4896805AE Denso: 421000-0620, 421000-0621 Original Reference Number: 46588 Lester: 11383 Arrowhead: AND0476 J & N Automotive: 400-52194R AC-Delco: 334-2795 Remy Remanufactured: 12857 NAPA: 213-9749 MPA: 15095 BBB Ind: 11383 Wilson: 90-29-5718 Carquest: 11383A Bosch Remanufactured: AL6469X BBB New: N11383 Rayloc New: 1N9749 Denso First Time Fit: 210-0653 Remy New: 94733 Romaine Electric: 11383N, 36-11383 Dixie Electric: A-80380 Fitment: Chrysler 300 V6 2.7L 2008-2010 300 V6 3.5L 2008-2010 300 V8 5.7L 2008-2010 300 V8 6.1L 2008-2010 300 V8 6.4L 2012 Dodge Challenger V6 3.5L 2009-2010 Challenger V8 5.7L 2009-2010 Challenger V8 6.1L 2008-2010 Charger V6 2.7L 2008-2010 Charger V6 3.5L 2008-2010 Charger V8 5.7L 2008-2010 Charger V8 6.1L 2008-2010 Charger V8 6.4L 2012-2013 Magnum V6 2.7L 2008 Magnum V6 3.5L 2008 Magnum V8 5.7L 2008 Magnum V8 6.1L 2008 Features: 1. Easy to operate 2. Produced by the sophisticated technology 3. It is the combination of elegance and good use, firmly and securely, guaranteeing the safety of your car 4. Made of high quality material, durable and reliable in use 5. Brand new and high quality 6. An important car part 1 Year Warranty: This item have 1-year warranty. In the event the item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part by free. We only warranty cost of item parts. Any installation or other fees are non-refundable. Note: Any modifying the item of any kind without contacting us will void any and all warranty coverage for this item. Please contact us before modifying the part so that we have the opportunity to correct the situation. You can contact us by ebay message to get the full text of the written warranty. FAQ: How to Test Your Car Alternator for Power When a car battery isn’t providing enough power to start a car, people often assume that the battery is bad. Before buying an expensive new battery you may not need, check the alternator first to see whether it is providing proper power. How to Test an Alternator for Overcharging The alternator is vital part of your car or truck’s electrical system. When the vehicle is running, the alternator provides a constant charge to the battery, as well as to other accessories. Without the alternator, the battery will eventually discharge. Ticking in the Alternator An alternator is responsible for supplying an automobile with electrical power and charging the battery. A ticking sound is often an indication that the alternator is about to fail. The mileage of the generator Alternators provide essential electricity to power all the electrical devices in your car and charge your car’s battery. Modern alternators are maintenance-free and operate without failure for more than 120,000 miles. What tools are needed to change an alternator? A set of sockets or spanners, and a lever to hold pressure on it to keep the belt tight when installing the new one. How can I be sure that the alternator is the problem with my car? If you aren’t sure how to diagnose this problem yourself, you can take your car to the shop and have them check your alternator (even if you do the repairs yourself). What do I do if my alternator fails? Start out by replacing it. You might also want to test your battery to see if it still has juice since the alternator, which is supposed to charge it, failed. Also buy a new wiring harness to make sure maximum power is going throughout your car. Do I have to change my battery? If your alternator is broken, it may have drained your battery, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the battery is bad. If it’s been completely drained repeatedly, however, it may need to be replaced. Pull the battery from the car and take it to your nearest auto parts store to be tested – they can determine if the battery can still hold a charge. How do I check my voltage on my new alternator? Your battery is supposed to be at about 12 to 14 volts, if your alternator works that is where it will sit, maybe a little higher. You can plug a sensor onto the alternator and ground it off away from battery, then read it. Why is my alternator making knocking sounds? The inside of the alternator spins along with the pulley. Knocking sounds may mean there’s something broken inside the alternator that’s clicking as it’s struck by the spinning assembly. You should have your alternator tested and it may need to be replaced. TIPS 1. Using a multi-meter, measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine off. It should be 12 or 12.5 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, then the battery needs to be charged, something is draining the battery or the battery cannot hold a charge and needs to be replaced. 2. If the battery voltage is around 12 volts, then start the engine and again measure the voltage across the battery posts. It should have increased to 13 or 14 volts if the alternator is working and charging the battery. 3. If the battery voltage did not increase with the engine running, then verify the alternator and battery have good electrical connections. Make sure the battery cable terminals are tight and free from corrosion. Look for loose connectors or frayed cables. Use the multi-meter or a test light to verify the body of the alternator is grounded (zero resistance between the alternator and negative battery post). 4. If the battery voltage is well above 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator could be producing too much current and overcharging the battery. Maybe the voltage regulator (internal to some modern alternators) is bad. Or the battery is weak and a vehicle computer has temporarily raised the voltage limit. It might still also be bad connections or loose wiring. Some vehicle lights being brighter than others can be a symptom of this type of problem, because the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance of a bad wire or connection. 5. The condition of the alternator belt is the next thing to check. Of course make sure the belt is not broken. Also look for a belt that is loose and slipping. It would probably be making noise. 6. If in step 2 the voltage across the battery terminals was 13 to 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator is properly charging the battery. That is good news, but there is another alternator electrical problem to check for. I know from personal experience with a Ford 5.0L. that sometimes an alternator can charge fine when the engine is running but drain the battery when the engine is off. It probably has something to do with the rectifier diodes in the alternator not properly blocking current from draining away from the battery. This problem may be intermittent. It certainly was on my Ford 5.0. Disconnect all the electrical connections from the alternator when the car is put away for the night. If the battery never goes dead with the alternator disconnected but goes dead when the alternator is hooked up, then that might point to an alternator diode problem. RockAuto sells replacement diodes for some alternators. The diodes are buried so deep inside many modern alternators that replacing the entire alternator is often the most practical option. 7. If the battery goes dead when the car sits (engine off) with the alternator electrical connections disconnected, then something else is draining the battery. Check first for the most obvious battery drains such as any lights left on (headlights, trunk light, ashtray light, etc.). After that it gets harder to track down the problem especially on modern cars. Newer cars have systems that are designed to stay on for various amounts of time after the engine is switched off. In the next newsletter, I will offer some tips on tracking down specific circuits that are draining a battery. 8. Finally, there are the mechanical alternator problems. Unusual screeching or grinding sounds might come from a bad bearing in an alternator. However, the noise might also be coming from a loose belt, misaligned pulleys or worn out belt tensioner. Use an automotive stethoscope to verify where the noise is coming from. Avoid damaging new alternator bearings by making sure the belt pulleys are aligned, the belt tensioners are good, the belt is not over tightened, the alternator mounting bracket is not cracked or that there is not some other mechanical problem. Disconnecting the Alternator 1 Park the car on an even, level surface. Any time you plan to work on your vehicle, safety is paramount. Because you may need to jack the vehicle up, make sure it’s parked on a surface that’s suitable for the work. It should be evenly paved and flat. Even if you don’t have the jack the car up, it’s easier to work on an even surface. Ensure the vehicle is park, or has the parking brake engaged (if equipped with a standard transmission). 2 Disconnect the battery. Find the right socket to loosen the bolt that keeps the cable on the negative terminal tight. It’s the terminal of the battery with a visible (-) sign. Once it’s loose, slide the cable off the terminal to disconnect the battery. Never work in the engine bay of a vehicle without first disconnecting the battery for safety. Working on the alternator without disconnecting the battery could result in getting shocked or damaging the vehicle. You can leave the positive cable attached. 3 Jack the vehicle up if necessary. Follow the serpentine or accessory belts to locate the alternator in your engine bay. Depending on the vehicle, it may be on the top closest to you, or it may be on one of the sides and difficult to access. If you can’t easily access it from the engine bay, you’ll need to jack up the vehicle. Be sure the parking brake is on and the wheels are blocked before you jack it up. Insert jack stands beneath the vehicle for safety once it’s jacked up. 4 Remove the main power cable from the alternator. The main power cable will be the thick cable attached to the alternator that runs from the battery. Depending on how much space you have in your specific vehicle, you may be able to use a ratchet, but in some, you may only be able to fit an open-ended wrench. Unscrew the bolt holding it in place and pull it from where it’s connected. The bolts will likely require standard sized sockets or wrenches in American made vehicles, and metric in most foreign applications. The only other cable running to the alternator connects to a harness, so it will be easy to identify. Set the bolt aside someplace safe until you install the new alternator. 5 Release the safety clip connecting the wiring harness. The only other wiring heading into the alternator is the control harness. Use your finger or a flat head screwdriver to release the clip holding the harness together, then slide it apart. Be careful if you use a screwdriver to get to hard to reach clips so you don’t break the plastic. Tuck the loose wire aside so it doesn’t snag on the alternator when you remove it. Removing the Old Alternator 1 Relieve tension on the belt with the auto-tensioner (if equipped). Some vehicles use the alternator itself to apply tension to the serpentine or accessory belt, but others use an auto tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive from a breaker bar into the hole in the auto-tensioner pulley and apply pressure in a clockwise direction to relieve tension on the belt. You can tell if your vehicle uses an auto-tensioner by looking at the alternator mounting bracket: if the bolts can slide from side to side in the bracket, it does not have an auto-tensioner. You will need to slide the belt off the alternator pulley before you release the auto-tensioner. Prior to making any changes, take photos of the belt set up so tha you know exactly how the belt should be routed around the various pulleys. In some cars, you might need a friend to relieve the tension while you remove the belt. 2 Loosen the bolts on the alternator if there is no auto-tensioner. In cars without an auto-tensioner pulley, you can relieve the tension on the belt simply by loosening the two bolts that secure the alternator to the engine. These will often require a 14mm or 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) socket, though you may need to try others. As you loosen the bolts, the alternator will slide in the bracket under the tension of the belt. Only loosen the bolts, but do not remove them! You may not need to remove the serpentine or accessory belt if it’s not damaged. 3 Inspect the serpentine belt for damage. Look for signs of glossing or glazing (shinier portions) on the edges and underside of the belt. Inspect both the top and underside for signs of cracking as well. If you find any of those issues, you’ll need to replace it. 4 Remove the alternator from the engine bay. With the belt pulled off of the alternator pulley and the wires disconnected, the alternator should come out freely. You may need to wiggle the alternator around some things in order to remove it. Keep track of how you worm the alternator out of the engine bay to help squeeze the new one in. 5 Compare the new alternator to the old one. Before installing the new alternator, set it down on a table next to the old one you just removed. Make sure the mounting holes and wire connectors are in the same place and that the two parts are the same size. Even if you provided specific information when purchasing the alternator, this step is important to make sure they provided you with the correct part. If they don’t match, return the new alternator to the auto parts store to get the correct replacement. Installing the New Alternator 1 Slide the new alternator into place. You might have to wiggle the alternator around to squeeze it back into place in a crowded engine bay. Be sure to hold loose wires or the serpentine belt out of the way as you get it into place. Be careful not to trap any wiring behind the alternator as you slide it into place. Watch out for the serpentine belt as you slide the alternator into place to be sure you don’t damage it. 2 Insert the mounting bolts. Slide the mounting bolts through the alternator and into the mounting bracket. Tighten them by hand until they’re snug. In cars with an auto-tensioner pulley, you can completely tighten the bolts at this point, otherwise keep the bolts loose. You’ll need to tighten the belt using the alternator later if you don’t have an auto-tensioner. Make sure the bolts are snug enough to hold the alternator in place, but loose enough to slide side to side in the bracket. 3 Run the belt over the new alternator pulley. Either install the new belt or run the old belt back through all of the appropriate pulleys. If you aren’t sure how to properly route the belt, use the photos you have previously taken. You can also look for a diagram on the body of the car inside the engine bay to guide you. The belt will need to go around any accessories it is supposed to power in your specific vehicle. Keep the tensioner loose with pressure on the ratchet. When the belt is properly seated in the various pulleys, slowly release the ratchet, allowing the tensioner to once again place tension on the belt. If there is no diagram stuck in the engine bay, you may also be able to find the diagram in your vehicle owner’s manual. You might also be able to find the diagram on the manufacturer’s website. 4 Apply tension to the alternator with a pry bar if necessary. table#Attrid1288531 {border-collapse:separate} table#Attrid1288531 tr:last-child td:last-child{border-bottom-right-radius: 10px;} table#Attrid1288531 tr:last-child td:first-child{border-bottom-left-radius: 10px;} table#Attrid1288531 tr:nth-of-type(1n){} table#Attrid1288531 tr:nth-of-type(2n){} table#Attrid1288531 td{padding: 3px;} table#Attrid1288531{font-size:12px !important;font-family:Arial !important;color:#686868 !important;text-align:left !important;} table#Attrid1288531 td:first-child{font-weight: 900; !important;;padding:3px;border:1px none ;} #m_pre1288531{border:1px none ;overflow: hidden;border-radius: 10px;} Item Specifics Brand CCIYU Manufacturer Part Number AP11873301P Interchange Part Number 421000-0620,11383-11382,04896805AE, 4896805AE,11383 Pulley Class S6 Fan Type IF Regulator IR Amperage 160 A Rotation CW Voltage 12 v Manufacturer Warranty 1 Year New Or Remanufactured New Pulley Included Yes Finish Same as OE OE Spec or Performance/Custom OE Spec Pieces 1 pc alternator Position on the vehicle Front One Wire Capable No Plug Clock Position 1:00 Pulley Belt Type Serpentine Pulley Groove Quantity 6 Ground Type Negative Mounting Type T Case Color Aluminum Case Material Aluminum Performance Part Yes Vintage Part No Feature 1 All Items Tested for Reliability and Performance Note 1 Brand New Manufactured With Best Quality Components Note 2 Engineered to Meet or Exceed OEM Specifications Mounting Hardware Included No Core Charge No Core Required Material Metal Pully Wheel Design Regular Mileage More Than 100,000 miles Feature 2 Backed by satisfying after-sales service Features Clockwise Rotation, Pulley Included Weight 13.18lbs Universal Fitment No OE/OEM Part Number 421000-0620, 421000-0621,46588,AND0476,400-52194R Superseded Part Number 1 334-2795,12857,213-9749,15095,90-29-5718,11383A Type Alternator Superseded Part Number 3 11383N, 36-11383,A-80380 Superseded Part Number 3 11383N, 36-11383,A-80380 Payment WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm – www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. PayPal preferred. Payments are expected within 7 days after the last winning auction is closed; Otherwise Unpaid Item Dispute will be filed with eBay. Shipping All domestic orders will be shipped via USPS, UPS or FedEx from our US warehouse and usually arrives to your door in about 3-5 business days. We ship the package to your shipping address in eBay instead of the one in PayPal. Please tell us your shipping address if it is different from the one in eBay. The tracking number will be given for the customer to check the shipping status online (registered or faster service only). We are not responsible for any wrong or undeliverable addresses. Please verify and update your shipping address on eBay during checkout. Returns 1.All of our brand new items come with a 60-Days money-back guarantee. 2.We define the item as defective only if it doesn’t function as described, It is the buyer’s responsibility to understand the item description before bidding. 3.We will replace the defective items, provided that they are in stock within the warranty period posted with the listing and the buyer return the original item and pay for the S&H cost for the replacement. 4.We will refund the purchase price if the replac ement is not available or buyer prefers a refund and send the original item back at his/her own cost. 5.Shipping& handling cost are not refundable. 6.Man-made damage by abuse or wrong operation is not covered by this warranty. 7.No product liability insurance is assumed. 8.Refunds will be credited within 5 to 7 business days of receiving the return. When we’ve received and processed the return, we will refund the applicable amount minus any Recovery Fees (See Details Below) for the amount you paid for the item(s), plus any applicable sales tax. Customer Services Q: How do I pay for my purchase? A: MY store accepts PayPal. Q: When will the item be shipped out? A: This item will be shipped with 2 business day once payment completed. Q: Where is my tracking number? A: Please log on your account, click “my eBay”–>”my summary”, or open your email box and find the shipping notification email. Q: How do I return an item? A: My tore accepts returns. Items must be returned within 60 days. Refunds will be given as money back. Please contact our customer service before you return an item. DESCRIPTION PAYMENT SHIPPING RETURN POLICY CONTACT US Shop Category Store Home Catalytic Converter Car Floor Mats Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Oil Cooler Strut Tie Bar Vacuum pump Tire Pressure Gauge Boost Pressure Gauge Starter Carburetor Alternator Power Steering Rack Sensor Transmission Kit Relay Solenoid Engine Mount Voltage Rectifier Regulator oil hose line Truck Bed Mat Other Hot Item Alternator For Acura MDX 2003-2009 TL 2004-2008 11099 11150 11151 High Output USD 90.99 Alternator For 2011-2013 Honda Odysey 2012-2015 Pilot Ridgeline 3.5L IR/IF 11573 USD 107.87 Black Rubber Truck Bed Mat For Silverado Sierra 1500 2019-2023 5.5FT 50-6465 USD 106.16 Alternator For Honda Accord 2008-2012 Crosstour Accord 3.5L 11392 AND0483 130AMP USD 87.61 Alternator For Chrome 1 Wire Self Exciting Street Rod GM 305 350 BBC SBC ADR0335 USD 69.15 Excellent Delivery Help & Info Payment Policy Shipping Policy Return Policy FAQ About Us New List Item Catalytic Converter For Toyota Fj Cruiser 2007-2009 Tacoma 2005-2009 16391 18141 USD 75.55 Crank Shaft Crankshaft Position Sensor For Jeep Wrangler 97-2002 2.5L 56027865AB USD 16.49 Starter For Kohler Engine 32-098-01-S Holland Mowers G4030 G4035 G4050 435-275 USD 58.42 35170-22600 Throttle Position Sensor TPS Fits 2008 Kia Spectra EX Sedan 4-Door USD 19.16 Crankshaft Position Sensor For Dodge Dakota Jeep Wrangler Cherokee TJ PC169 USD 13.79 New Alternator For Chrysler 2008-2012 Dodge Challenger Charger 2008-2010 11383 Specifications: Unit Type: Alternator Part Type: UNIT Voltage: 12 Rotation: CW Amperage: 160 Pulley Class: S6 Regulator: IR Fan Type: IF Part Numbers: Chrysler: 04896805AD, 4896805AD, 04896805AE, 4896805AE Denso: 421000-0620, 421000-0621 Original Reference Number: 46588 Lester: 11383 Arrowhead: AND0476 J & N Automotive: 400-52194R AC-Delco: 334-2795 Remy Remanufactured: 12857 NAPA: 213-9749 MPA: 15095 BBB Ind: 11383 Wilson: 90-29-5718 Carquest: 11383A Bosch Remanufactured: AL6469X BBB New: N11383 Rayloc New: 1N9749 Denso First Time Fit: 210-0653 Remy New: 94733 Romaine Electric: 11383N, 36-11383 Dixie Electric: A-80380 Fitment: Chrysler 300 V6 2.7L 2008-2010 300 V6 3.5L 2008-2010 300 V8 5.7L 2008-2010 300 V8 6.1L 2008-2010 300 V8 6.4L 2012 Dodge Challenger V6 3.5L 2009-2010 Challenger V8 5.7L 2009-2010 Challenger V8 6.1L 2008-2010 Charger V6 2.7L 2008-2010 Charger V6 3.5L 2008-2010 Charger V8 5.7L 2008-2010 Charger V8 6.1L 2008-2010 Charger V8 6.4L 2012-2013 Magnum V6 2.7L 2008 Magnum V6 3.5L 2008 Magnum V8 5.7L 2008 Magnum V8 6.1L 2008 Features: 1. Easy to operate 2. Produced by the sophisticated technology 3. It is the combination of elegance and good use, firmly and securely, guaranteeing the safety of your car 4. Made of high quality material, durable and reliable in use 5. Brand new and high quality 6. An important car part 1 Year Warranty: This item have 1-year warranty. In the event the item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part by free. We only warranty cost of item parts. Any installation or other fees are non-refundable. Note: Any modifying the item of any kind without contacting us will void any and all warranty coverage for this item. Please contact us before modifying the part so that we have the opportunity to correct the situation. You can contact us by ebay message to get the full text of the written warranty. FAQ: How to Test Your Car Alternator for Power When a car battery isn’t providing enough power to start a car, people often assume that the battery is bad. Before buying an expensive new battery you may not need, check the alternator first to see whether it is providing proper power. How to Test an Alternator for Overcharging The alternator is vital part of your car or truck’s electrical system. When the vehicle is running, the alternator provides a constant charge to the battery, as well as to other accessories. Without the alternator, the battery will eventually discharge. Ticking in the Alternator An alternator is responsible for supplying an automobile with electrical power and charging the battery. A ticking sound is often an indication that the alternator is about to fail. The mileage of the generator Alternators provide essential electricity to power all the electrical devices in your car and charge your car’s battery. Modern alternators are maintenance-free and operate without failure for more than 120,000 miles. What tools are needed to change an alternator? A set of sockets or spanners, and a lever to hold pressure on it to keep the belt tight when installing the new one. How can I be sure that the alternator is the problem with my car? If you aren’t sure how to diagnose this problem yourself, you can take your car to the shop and have them check your alternator (even if you do the repairs yourself). What do I do if my alternator fails? Start out by replacing it. You might also want to test your battery to see if it still has juice since the alternator, which is supposed to charge it, failed. Also buy a new wiring harness to make sure maximum power is going throughout your car. Do I have to change my battery? If your alternator is broken, it may have drained your battery, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the battery is bad. If it’s been completely drained repeatedly, however, it may need to be replaced. Pull the battery from the car and take it to your nearest auto parts store to be tested – they can determine if the battery can still hold a charge. How do I check my voltage on my new alternator? Your battery is supposed to be at about 12 to 14 volts, if your alternator works that is where it will sit, maybe a little higher. You can plug a sensor onto the alternator and ground it off away from battery, then read it. Why is my alternator making knocking sounds? The inside of the alternator spins along with the pulley. Knocking sounds may mean there’s something broken inside the alternator that’s clicking as it’s struck by the spinning assembly. You should have your alternator tested and it may need to be replaced. TIPS 1. Using a multi-meter, measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine off. It should be 12 or 12.5 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, then the battery needs to be charged, something is draining the battery or the battery cannot hold a charge and needs to be replaced. 2. If the battery voltage is around 12 volts, then start the engine and again measure the voltage across the battery posts. It should have increased to 13 or 14 volts if the alternator is working and charging the battery. 3. If the battery voltage did not increase with the engine running, then verify the alternator and battery have good electrical connections. Make sure the battery cable terminals are tight and free from corrosion. Look for loose connectors or frayed cables. Use the multi-meter or a test light to verify the body of the alternator is grounded (zero resistance between the alternator and negative battery post). 4. If the battery voltage is well above 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator could be producing too much current and overcharging the battery. Maybe the voltage regulator (internal to some modern alternators) is bad. Or the battery is weak and a vehicle computer has temporarily raised the voltage limit. It might still also be bad connections or loose wiring. Some vehicle lights being brighter than others can be a symptom of this type of problem, because the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance of a bad wire or connection. 5. The condition of the alternator belt is the next thing to check. Of course make sure the belt is not broken. Also look for a belt that is loose and slipping. It would probably be making noise. 6. If in step 2 the voltage across the battery terminals was 13 to 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator is properly charging the battery. That is good news, but there is another alternator electrical problem to check for. I know from personal experience with a Ford 5.0L. that sometimes an alternator can charge fine when the engine is running but drain the battery when the engine is off. It probably has something to do with the rectifier diodes in the alternator not properly blocking current from draining away from the battery. This problem may be intermittent. It certainly was on my Ford 5.0. Disconnect all the electrical connections from the alternator when the car is put away for the night. If the battery never goes dead with the alternator disconnected but goes dead when the alternator is hooked up, then that might point to an alternator diode problem. RockAuto sells replacement diodes for some alternators. The diodes are buried so deep inside many modern alternators that replacing the entire alternator is often the most practical option. 7. If the battery goes dead when the car sits (engine off) with the alternator electrical connections disconnected, then something else is draining the battery. Check first for the most obvious battery drains such as any lights left on (headlights, trunk light, ashtray light, etc.). After that it gets harder to track down the problem especially on modern cars. Newer cars have systems that are designed to stay on for various amounts of time after the engine is switched off. In the next newsletter, I will offer some tips on tracking down specific circuits that are draining a battery. 8. Finally, there are the mechanical alternator problems. Unusual screeching or grinding sounds might come from a bad bearing in an alternator. However, the noise might also be coming from a loose belt, misaligned pulleys or worn out belt tensioner. Use an automotive stethoscope to verify where the noise is coming from. Avoid damaging new alternator bearings by making sure the belt pulleys are aligned, the belt tensioners are good, the belt is not over tightened, the alternator mounting bracket is not cracked or that there is not some other mechanical problem. Disconnecting the Alternator 1 Park the car on an even, level surface. Any time you plan to work on your vehicle, safety is paramount. Because you may need to jack the vehicle up, make sure it’s parked on a surface that’s suitable for the work. It should be evenly paved and flat. Even if you don’t have the jack the car up, it’s easier to work on an even surface. Ensure the vehicle is park, or has the parking brake engaged (if equipped with a standard transmission). 2 Disconnect the battery. Find the right socket to loosen the bolt that keeps the cable on the negative terminal tight. It’s the terminal of the battery with a visible (-) sign. Once it’s loose, slide the cable off the terminal to disconnect the battery. Never work in the engine bay of a vehicle without first disconnecting the battery for safety. Working on the alternator without disconnecting the battery could result in getting shocked or damaging the vehicle. You can leave the positive cable attached. 3 Jack the vehicle up if necessary. Follow the serpentine or accessory belts to locate the alternator in your engine bay. Depending on the vehicle, it may be on the top closest to you, or it may be on one of the sides and difficult to access. If you can’t easily access it from the engine bay, you’ll need to jack up the vehicle. Be sure the parking brake is on and the wheels are blocked before you jack it up. Insert jack stands beneath the vehicle for safety once it’s jacked up. 4 Remove the main power cable from the alternator. The main power cable will be the thick cable attached to the alternator that runs from the battery. Depending on how much space you have in your specific vehicle, you may be able to use a ratchet, but in some, you may only be able to fit an open-ended wrench. Unscrew the bolt holding it in place and pull it from where it’s connected. The bolts will likely require standard sized sockets or wrenches in American made vehicles, and metric in most foreign applications. The only other cable running to the alternator connects to a harness, so it will be easy to identify. Set the bolt aside someplace safe until you install the new alternator. 5 Release the safety clip connecting the wiring harness. The only other wiring heading into the alternator is the control harness. Use your finger or a flat head screwdriver to release the clip holding the harness together, then slide it apart. Be careful if you use a screwdriver to get to hard to reach clips so you don’t break the plastic. Tuck the loose wire aside so it doesn’t snag on the alternator when you remove it. Removing the Old Alternator 1 Relieve tension on the belt with the auto-tensioner (if equipped). Some vehicles use the alternator itself to apply tension to the serpentine or accessory belt, but others use an auto tensioner pulley. Insert the square drive from a breaker bar into the hole in the auto-tensioner pulley and apply pressure in a clockwise direction to relieve tension on the belt. You can tell if your vehicle uses an auto-tensioner by looking at the alternator mounting bracket: if the bolts can slide from side to side in the bracket, it does not have an auto-tensioner. You will need to slide the belt off the alternator pulley before you release the auto-tensioner. Prior to making any changes, take photos of the belt set up so tha you know exactly how the belt should be routed around the various pulleys. In some cars, you might need a friend to relieve the tension while you remove the belt. 2 Loosen the bolts on the alternator if there is no auto-tensioner. In cars without an auto-tensioner pulley, you can relieve the tension on the belt simply by loosening the two bolts that secure the alternator to the engine. These will often require a 14mm or 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) socket, though you may need to try others. As you loosen the bolts, the alternator will slide in the bracket under the tension of the belt. Only loosen the bolts, but do not remove them! You may not need to remove the serpentine or accessory belt if it’s not damaged. 3 Inspect the serpentine belt for damage. Look for signs of glossing or glazing (shinier portions) on the edges and underside of the belt. Inspect both the top and underside for signs of cracking as well. If you find any of those issues, you’ll need to replace it. 4 Remove the alternator from the engine bay. With the belt pulled off of the alternator pulley and the wires disconnected, the alternator should come out freely. You may need to wiggle the alternator around some things in order to remove it. Keep track of how you worm the alternator out of the engine bay to help squeeze the new one in. 5 Compare the new alternator to the old one. Before installing the new alternator, set it down on a table next to the old one you just removed. Make sure the mounting holes and wire connectors are in the same place and that the two parts are the same size. Even if you provided specific information when purchasing the alternator, this step is important to make sure they provided you with the correct part. If they don’t match, return the new alternator to the auto parts store to get the correct replacement. Installing the New Alternator 1 Slide the new alternator into place. You might have to wiggle the alternator around to squeeze it back into place in a crowded engine bay. Be sure to hold loose wires or the serpentine belt out of the way as you get it into place. Be careful not to trap any wiring behind the alternator as you slide it into place. Watch out for the serpentine belt as you slide the alternator into place to be sure you don’t damage it. 2 Insert the mounting bolts. Slide the mounting bolts through the alternator and into the mounting bracket. Tighten them by hand until they’re snug. In cars with an auto-tensioner pulley, you can completely tighten the bolts at this point, otherwise keep the bolts loose. You’ll need to tighten the belt using the alternator later if you don’t have an auto-tensioner. Make sure the bolts are snug enough to hold the alternator in place, but loose enough to slide side to side in the bracket. 3 Run the belt over the new alternator pulley. Either install the new belt or run the old belt back through all of the appropriate pulleys. If you aren’t sure how to properly route the belt, use the photos you have previously taken. You can also look for a diagram on the body of the car inside the engine bay to guide you. The belt will need to go around any accessories it is supposed to power in your specific vehicle. Keep the tensioner loose with pressure on the ratchet. When the belt is properly seated in the various pulleys, slowly release the ratchet, allowing the tensioner to once again place tension on the belt. If there is no diagram stuck in the engine bay, you may also be able to find the diagram in your vehicle owner’s manual. You might also be able to find the diagram on the manufacturer’s website. 4 Apply tension to the alternator with a pry bar if necessary. WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm – www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. PayPal preferred. Payments are expected within 7 days after the last winning auction is closed; Otherwise Unpaid Item Dispute will be filed with eBay. Shipping All domestic orders will be shipped via USPS, UPS or FedEx from our US warehouse and usually arrives to your door in about 3-5 business days. We ship the package to your shipping address in eBay instead of the one in PayPal. Please tell us your shipping address if it is different from the one in eBay. 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